A Russian manicure and a classic manicure differ in one thing, and everything else follows from it: how the cuticle is worked. The classic softens it in water and cuts it with nippers; the Russian works it dry with an e-file and precision bits, removing only the dead skin. The result is a cleaner outline, polish that can be applied closer to the skin and, because of that, a manicure that looks new for longer.
What a Russian manicure is
A Russian manicure is a dry cuticle technique: instead of soaking and cutting, the cuticle is lifted with a pusher and the dead skin is removed with a precision e-file. No water, no nippers, and a nail outline cleared right up to the living skin.
It takes its name from the salons of Russia and Eastern Europe, where a manicure is part of everyday grooming. At nails and the city it is the technique we use on the cuticle in all our manicures, with regular or gel polish.
What a classic manicure is
A classic manicure is the traditional one: hands are soaked in warm water to soften the cuticle, it is pushed back and the excess is cut with nippers or scissors. It is quick and pleasant, but softened cuticle cuts less precisely and grows back sooner, and the polish is applied leaving a small gap from the skin.
The differences, one by one
The table sums up what changes between the two. The column that matters most is the second, the outline: everything else depends on it.
| What you compare | Russian manicure | Classic manicure |
|---|---|---|
| How the cuticle is worked | Dry, with a precision e-file | Soaked and cut with nippers |
| Outline | Clean right up to the living skin | With a small gap |
| Where the polish reaches | Right up to the cuticle | A millimetre from the skin |
| When regrowth shows | Three or four weeks | Two weeks |
| Risk of nicks | Minimal, nothing is cut | Possible when cutting the cuticle |
| Session length | 45 to 60 minutes | 30 to 45 minutes |
| Who it suits | Anyone who wants the most polished, longest-lasting finish | Anyone who wants something quick and simple |
Why polish lasts longer with a Russian manicure
It lasts longer because the colour is applied right up to the cuticle, with no gap. As the nail grows, the bare strip takes a week longer to appear, so gel polish looks new for three or four weeks instead of two. Here is how long gel polish lasts and how to make it last longer.
Does a Russian manicure damage the nail?
Not when it is done by someone trained. The e-file works on dead cuticle and the skin around the nail, never on the plate. What ruins nails is something else: filing the surface so polish grips, or peeling gel off at home. Neither happens at the salon, which is why removal is included in the price.
What you will notice is that, with nothing cut, there are no hangnails or little nicks, and the cuticle grows back finer and neater.
When each one is worth it
- Choose the Russian manicure if you wear gel polish, if you want the outline to look flawless in photos, or if your cuticle is thick or uneven.
- Choose the classic if you want something quick for an occasion, if you will wear regular polish and change it within a week, or if your skin is very sensitive and you would rather avoid the e-file.
- Either is fine if all you want is colour: our file and polish service is €10.90 and does not touch the cuticle.
What to expect in the chair
A manicure with cuticle work takes between 30 min and 45 min depending on the version, and around an hour with gel polish. It does not hurt: you will feel the vibration of the e-file and little else. Afterwards, cuticle oil every night and back in three or four weeks.
You can book your appointment through Treatwell or write to us if you would like advice on which to choose.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a Russian and a classic manicure?
The way the cuticle is worked: the Russian works it dry with an e-file and removes only dead skin; the classic softens it in water and cuts it with nippers. That is why the Russian leaves a cleaner outline and the polish lasts longer.
Does a Russian manicure hurt?
No. You will feel the vibration of the e-file on the skin, but nothing is cut and the nail is not touched. It is more comfortable than the classic for anyone with sensitive cuticles.
How long does a Russian manicure take?
The session, between 30 min and 45 min depending on the version, and around an hour with gel polish. The result holds for three or four weeks.
Is a Russian manicure more expensive?
At nails and the city, no: it is the technique we use on the cuticle in every manicure, from the express at €13.90 to the nails and the city manicure at €19.90.
Can I have a Russian manicure with regular polish?
Yes. The technique is about the cuticle; afterwards you choose regular or gel polish. Gel is where the difference shows most, because the colour reaches the skin and regrowth takes longer to appear.